Tuesday, December 24, 2019

Travel in the modern age

The first I went abroad in a trip by myself was 17 years ago. I was 19, green and felt in some ways overwhelmed by the moment. I hardly remember the details of that first trip to Paris and Amsterdam, just small details. I remember my anecdotes and I guess that's enough... but what surprises me now is the frequency and normalcy with which we travel. I can go on my phone and within a few minutes can have an e-ticket waiting for me in my inbox. 

A month ago, I wasn't sure whether I'd head back to the US. It was a thought floating about but nothing I'd truly considered, the prices for flights were already pretty expensive and it wasn't looking likely. Armelle decided to give it a look and within moments I was all set. New York for the holidays with my family and friends. 

If I had lived in the 1940's, I couldn't dream about going to another continent on vacation? What would I do for money? What if I didn't speak the language? How would I get back? Even back when I was 19 it was tough, Google Maps wasn't a thing, Google Translate didn't exist and it was difficult to take out money from a foreign bank.

Flash forward to today, I'm hanging out at a cafe in Brussels, uploading pics to Instagram, reading articles on ESPN and listening to music on Spotify. I'm in contact in real-time with folks around the world (back in the days you needed phone cards to stay in touch and dial a long ass pin to connect), life has changed so much (for better and for worse).

Friday, November 29, 2019

Vivaporu

The smell is sharp, minty, immediately recognizable. As soon as the leaves started falling and flu bugs spread like locusts, you could spot the stench. 

When I was younger, my mom would put Vivaporu on my chest before going to bed in order to clear my breathing. She would put some over my lip, just to make sure. And I'd fall asleep like that, my chest feeling like a glacier had crawled across it, it's overwhelming scent overtaking me. 

Every winter, every cold and flu, it was the same thing, the same process, she would tuck me in but, before turning off the light, she'd whip out that inimitable blue jar. I only knew it as Vivaporu. 

One day, around the age of ten, I was looking through my mom's closet (I was a really curious kid) when I found that bar; midnight blue body with an aquamarine top and took a good look at the label: Vick's Vapor Rub. I couldn't believe it, why did my mom call it Vivaporu, that made no sense. Until, it did. 

Friday, October 25, 2019

The American Dream

Today, I was thinking about something my cousin (I'll let them remain unnamed out of respect for the backlash they may get) said to me, that black folks in the US need to learn from immigrants and fight for a better future. Now, on the one hand, I can see his point about striving for something better. On the other, I feel like he's not taking a macro approach to the issues that plague these communities, the institutionalized racism, the neglect and the despair you feel when you see nothing change, when your grandparents grew up in public housing like you did.

I got to thinking about this because I was thinking about my childhood. I was thinking about my parents and what their lives were like: my mom was a secretary at a North American firm in El Salvador, a great job for anyone living there at the time, and my maternal grandfather was a congressman. My dad was a college graduate (he has an architectural degree) but worked as a foreman and accountant at the same firm (IRCA, Intercontinental Railroad of Central America). My dad def grew up as more of a hic but he always punched above his weight and I think it's their middle-class ambitions that they passed on to us. My parents always valued a good education (both at home and at school) as well as creativity, I was always encouraged to read and draw as much as I wanted. My dad, not so secretly, wanted me to become an architect and live vicariously through me (and I know I probably let him down but after six months of architecture class at A & D, I knew it wasn't for me). The thing is, he wanted me to become an architect, not a mechanic, a plumber or construction worker, not that these aren't skilled or well-paying jobs but he wanted something more academic for me. 

To contrast that, I thought about this family that was described to me by my brother-in-law Ruddy. He recounted, after his business trip to India, how he was at a train station there, I think in New Delhi, and there was a family, like many at the station, sitting on the floor. There were three generations present, grandparents, the parents and a small child. The child was sitting on the ground when suddenly he passed himself, creating a puddle all around him. He then began playing in his piss, splashing it around and having fun in it while his parents and grandparents watched. Ruddy watched this unfold, horrified, and reflected on his own past (he told us how he used to pick tobacco at a local plantation when he was 8 just to make ends meet and now he's a mechanical engineer). He'd grown up in the Dominican Republic and thought that he knew what poverty was but, apparently, this is a whole other ballgame. Now, India truly another world, you have an entrenched caste system supported by the hindu belief of reincarnation. Is it right to compare this society to one like the US? I'd argue that you could. 

Let's start with the myth of the American dream. That's exactly what it is, it's an idea meant to prop up a system, to maintain the status quo. Ask yourself, has someone truly ever come from the gutter and become a millionaire or billionaire or have they inherited fortunes and make them greater? Take Carnegie, Rockefeller, these guys weren't exactly from aristocratic backgrounds but they also weren't from the lower classes. Take Trump, the so-called "self-made millionaire". Bullshit. His father was already a millionaire, having made his money in real estate and passing on his fortune to his son. Don't believe me? Pick up almost any biography written about him, I'd stay away from autobiographies in this case, and you'll see. And if what I'm saying is true, that the possibility of going from gutter rat to glitterati isn't possible, then why do we continue to propagate this myth? 

I can answer that question with a story. My cousin, the aforementioned one, once argued with me about increasing rich people's taxes. He was against it, something I found incredulous. What was his thinking? Well, he argued that it would suck if rich people had to pay more taxes because what if he became rich. Why should he have to pay more taxes just because he's more successful? Now, he just went from blue-collar worker to multimillionaire in a heartbeat and all to defend the millions that aren't in his bank account but in some rich asshole's pocket. And that's just it, that's how people think. That's the power of the American dream, that, even though you'll probably end up in the same class as your parents before them, you'll still defend the wealthy's privileges just in case you ever become one. Or just in case you ever reincarnate as one.

Thursday, July 4, 2019

A love letter to Madrid

Plaza de dos olores horribles, pis y mierda fresca,
Tus rasgos me asaltan, atracan mis sentidos,
Como cubo de basura, recibes todo lo mal,
Hasta que el cubo se derrama,
Un verdadero vertadero,
Su gentuza apesta a merluza,
La tarde arde con un infierno andaluz,
La luz acaba en este vacío de Malasaña,
Feo, ediondo, así te quiero mi querido Madrid.

Pasé la tarde en Plaza Dos de Mayo y un poeta, viejo, desesperado, me vendió su libro de poemas y, por pena, se lo compré. Inspirado por sus poemas, que me parecían de poco nivel, si voy a ser sincero, escribí este poema.

Friday, March 29, 2019

Capitalism vs Community

Politics have been a part of my life all the way back to my birth. I was born in NY to Salvadoran parents who fled the turmoil, economic instability and, most importantly, the civil war which ravaged our country for twelve years. As long as I can remember my parents, in particular my dad, are the staunchest liberals with leftist ideals. 

The contrast, of course, comes with growing up in the US and, specifically, New York City. New York is not a city for the faint of heart, for the lazy, for the lackadaisical (though that's not to say that they don't also inhabit our city. The Rotten Apple is known for ambition, creativity, the hustle; you betta make moves if you wanna get ahead, getting by ain't an option. Ambition, that most prized quality of capitalism, the force that fuels the American dream, I've always found problematic. Why do we need to work? Why do we need to spend 40 hours of our work week slaving away to increase someone else's dividends? 

I think of my cousin (you can guess which one), with his single-mindedness that I could never attain. (I won't go into detail but let's just say there were many projects that skewed the line of legality.) I remember when he had this idea to buy cartons of Newport cigarettes from a contact in Chinatown, then sell them either by the pack or as looseys (the street term for a loose cigarette). We paraded up and down 3rd Ave, 2nd Ave and parts of Alphabet City looking for customers as they smoked their cigs outside East Village bars, the patrons laughing at our poor choice of product (if you didn't know, Newports are commonly known as a "ghetto" brand, most people opt for Marlboro, Marlboro Lights or Camels). We sold maybe a few packs that night and, with our tails tucked between our legs, returned home. Next time we figured that a ghetto neighborhood would make more sense, so we walked up and down Jamaica Ave peddling our contraband. This was only one of my cousin's ideas and, admittedly, one of the few failures. 

Compare that with Madrid and Europe in general. In my first year in Madrid, and the place where I met Armelle, my wife, I started going to a place called La Tabacalera (the cigar or tobacco factory, more or less). La Tabacalera is a self-run, community center in the heart of Madrid near Embajadores in the neighborhood of Lavapies. It's a magical place and holds a dear place in my heart for many reasons. What is it? It was a former factory that was abandoned and in ruins. Around 2008, or maybe before, I'm not sure, many Spaniards felt indignant about the economic situation in the country. Many decided to organize and form collectives to provide what the government was no longer (seemingly) able to. These people, this movement, became known as Los Indignados (The Indignent) and gained small footholds all across the nation. These footholds were the community centers that sprung up, people went in together, occupied an abandoned building, made the necessary renovations and began offering services to local denizens. At a place like La Tabacalera you can take all sorts of classes, salsa, capoeira, English and many more. They have a bike repair workshop, a welding workshop, a slew of rehearsal studios in the basement, murals that adorn nearly every square centimeter of surface area from noted street artists and graffiti artists and host monthly events. Oh, and they have an art gallery, like a proper art gallery. La Tabacalera is the exception because it's no longer simply a squat, it's recognized by the local government and therefore not subject to police incursions or eviction notices. 

After I began going to La Tabacalera, initially because they offered free salsa classes, that's how my American mind understood, I started going to some of the other centers. I went to Patio Maravillas in its heyday and it was there that I became more active in the structure of the centers. First, i helped when the salsa collective, called Salsearte, would need participants to do bar-duty at the bar / cafe at the center. Then I started attending the monthly meetings and, when the news came that the Communidad de Madrid (the city hall) was going to start a process of eviction, I began to help out in any way I could, sometimes simply going to the meetings and learning more. What I learned is that these centers, generally speaking, aren't inherently heirarchical (though a structure does exist). In fact, in most cases it resembles an anarchic ideal without ever strictly conforming to it. Basically put, there are no elected officials. There are no leaders that are there because they were given a post. You go, you listen, you comment and when it's time to put something to a vote, you vote. 

As a kid coming from NY, it boggled my mind. "How is this possible? This could never last in my hometown ... why don't we have this back home?" I wrestled with these questions the same way I've been wrestling with my very nature. Lately, as I begin to expand my network of friends, acquaintances, colleagues and contacts, I've been thinking about starting a B-boying / B-girling class. I already started a writing workshop, to mild success (though greatly successful as a personal achievement), and have been thinking that it might be time to do something with breaking. With breaking I always felt I got more out of it as a teacher than as a b-boy; I'm a decent dancer but I'm really good at teaching (at least I'd like to think so). What used to hold me back is this idea that I'm good at this, why would I just give it away for free? Why not make some money off it? 

There's a famous quote from Rockefeller or Carnegie or one of those dead fat cats that says (I'm paraphrasing), never do something for free if you're good at it. Maybe that makes sense back home, in the bustling, concrete confines of Gotham's metropolis, but today it's a new day, a new approach and a new country. And, maybe, this requires a new Larry to see it through.